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Seen in the NYT review of Thomas Keller’s Per Se restaurant:
Lobster is easy; potato salad is hard. And a restaurant that turns a summer picnic staple into a meal-stopping, sigh-inducing dish — and makes that dish a legitimate course in a $135 tasting menu — cannot be denied. Per Se is wondrous.
Proving that food writers, perhaps alone among journalists in an election year able to provide balanced coverage, restaurant reviewer Frank Bruni also raves about the calf brains.
